STEP 1: Fuses And Proper Line Voltage
If your spa is being supplied with a disconnect that houses the fuses (usually mounted on the house), then turn off the main breaker that supplies this and check them with an Ohmmeter.
If the fuses check ok, then with the power back on, check that you have the required line voltage in the spa control box at the terminal strip or lugs (either 110 vac or 220 vac). If doing these things left you with no results, then call a professional spa repairman or a licensed electrician.
STEP 2: Testing The GFCI
If you do have the proper line voltage at the terminal strips or lugs, then give the GFCI (see picture below) a test by pushing the button that says "test" or "T". When pushing the test button on the GFCI the button that says "re-set" or "R" should pop out. If it does not, this is a faulty GFCI and should be replaced. See "GFCI" in parts section.
If you do have the proper line voltage at the terminal strips or lugs, then give the GFCI (see picture below) a test by pushing the button that says "test" or "T". When pushing the test button on the GFCI the button that says "re-set" or "R" should pop out. If it does not, this is a faulty GFCI and should be replaced. See "GFCI" in parts section.
NOTE: If you found the re-set button on the GFCI already popped out and when trying to re-set it, it just pops out again, then refer to "GFCI Trips" section.
Also, during this troubleshooting section you may have just stumbled across a faulty GFCI, but replacing it still has left you with "nothing working", then some other possibilities are:
- Fuses inside spa control box (Not all spas have them).
- Burnt wires.
- Some spas will not operate without the door’s shut; this is a safety switch called a "magnetic interlock".
- Some manufacturers, designed their spas to shut down when the Hi-limit switch trips.
See "Hi-limit Switch Trips" under "Spa Won’t Heat" section to locate it, and solve this problem.
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