Installing your new spa pump yourself can seem like a complicated task. This surely can be exactly what it is in certain cases. Normally handled by Spa Repair Technicians, if a homeowner believes he/she is up to the task it can be a rewarding experience. There are a few very important aspects to pay attention to before you attempt to complete the installation yourself. Continue reading to learn how to install your new spa pump.
Before installation, it’s most important to be 100% certain that you have the correct pump for replacement. Be sure to check out our article on how to accomplish this. See “Choosing the Right Spa Pump” for a guide on how to help you through that process. If you are sure that you have the correct pump, let's move on to what it takes to for a successful installation.
Isolation valves
Before any repair or installation, be sure to shut off the breaker that powers the spa.
Before we remove the pump, we must decide if we can isolate the pump with valves or if we will need to drain the spa before the work can begin.
1. Check to see if there are any valves on the plumbing that can be shut off. While looking at the plumbing, check to see if there are any valves before the intake of the pump and any after the discharge. Often, valves will isolate both the main circulation pump and the heater for the control system. Be sure to follow the plumbing and decide whether removing the pump will result in the spa draining or that it will hold the water in the tub in place. The last thing we want is a massive uncontrolled leak during any part of the process.
2. Not all manufacturers use valves to isolate equipment. Brands like Jacuzzi/Sundance and Hot Springs/Caldera, do not install these valves on their hot tubs. If they are present on your Spa, be sure to close them firmly before moving to the next step.
Draining the hot tub
Fig. 1: Drain Attached to Panel
Fig. 2: Drain Valve
Fig. 3 - Drain Valve Inside Spa
Fig. 4: Submersible Pump
3. In the event you cannot find any isolation valves, or they are inoperable, you must drain your spa completely.
If you are forced to drain the spa before installation, once again, begin with being sure the breaker that powers the spa is in the off position.
4. Many hot tubs are equipped with a drain valve. These valves can sometimes be located built into the front panel of the spa (Fig.1 & Fig.2). It can also be found lying on the floor inside the spa (Fig.3). If you can locate it, connect a garden hose to the valve and run the hose to a safe location. Be sure to keep neighbors, plants, pet areas, and flooding concerns in mind when choosing the location for the discharge. The chemicals in your hot tub can also cause damage to lawns.
5. If you do not have a drain valve equipped on your spa, you must either set a siphon or use a small submersible pump (Fig.4).
Removing mounting bolts/screws
Fig. 1: Base with Mounting Bracket
Fig. 2: Separate Base / Clamp
Fig. 3: Low Flow Pump Screws6. Most pumps are firmly anchored to the floor of the spa using 2-4 bolts or screws. These must be removed before the process can continue. Removing bolts/screws can be difficult task especially for ones located on the far side of the pump. (Fig.1)
7. On some other brands, the pump motors do not have a welded-on base and instead use a large base and bracket. (Fig.2)
Smaller pumps like low flow types, can be attached using long wood screws (Fig.3)
Disconnecting Plumbing: Unions / Clamps
Fig. 1: Oil Filter Pliers
Fig. 2: Buttress Unions
Fig. 3: Circulating Pump With Tubing and Clamps
8. The next step in the removal process is disconnecting the plumbing from the damaged pump. Most pumps come equipped with Buttress unions; this makes disconnecting your pump much easier.
To disconnect the union, use a pair of Channel Locks. You can also use a pair of oil filter pliers (Fig.1) or strap wrench. Oil filter pliers work very well as they have a large jaw but very short handles. These make it easier to get to the unions when space is limited.
9. Get a firm hold on the union with the pliers and turn counterclockwise to get it started, then use your hands to unthread the rest of the way. (Fig.2)
Some small low flow pumps use vinyl tubing that attaches to the pump using a spring clamp. In this case, use small pliers and squeeze the top of the clamp to expand it. Once opened up, slide the clamp up a little way, so it's off the nipple of the pump. Then, simply pull the hose off the pump. (Fig.3) If the tubing is hard to remove, use a heat gun or hair drier to soften the tubing. Be sure not to overheat and do not use an open flame or torch.
Removing the power cord
Fig. 1 : pump cord
Fig. 2 : pump wiring
10. Now that the pump mounting hardware is removed and the plumbing is disconnected, the next step is the removal of the power cord.
Start by disconnecting the cord from the power source (usually a control system) (Fig.1). If you are worried you will forget where to plug it in later, take a picture of the location or mark it in some way before you unplug it.
11. After you disconnect the power cord from the power source, you can proceed with physically pulling the pump out of the equipment compartment.
Once the pump is out of the spa cabinet, remove the cover off the back of the motor where the cord goes in.
12. Next, look at the wiring inside and take note of where each color wire is connected. (Fig.2)
It is a good idea to then look on the motor itself for the wiring diagram. This will tell you what each terminal is and its use. You can then determine what color wire is connected to each terminal and be able to label each wire, so you know how to connect the cord to your new pump. The most common configuration is:
Green= Ground
White = Common
Red = High speed
Black = Low Speed
It's important to understand that this is not always the case; some Hot Tub manufacturers work differently. Be sure to check and label first.
It is common to reuse the same cord that was on your old pump. If there is no rodent damage, cuts, burns etc., remove the cord from the pump and set aside.
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